Author Archives: Sten Johansson

Dive team Malpelo, April 2019 © Sten Johansson

It hasn’t been all fun and games. I have seen a lot of things that have turned my chest hair gray. After 25 years of being a dive guide, last month was my first time to bring my own small group to Malpelo on a half charter.

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Last month I brought my first group to Malpelo on a half-boat charter onboard Ferox. I wanted to have like-minded, solid divers with no ego so that I could focus on my work as a guide and do what I am good at.

I had the best divers! We all had the right attitude and we ended up having the best trip!

Please continue reading for the Malpelo dive log of my trip.

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Setting up a ger in Mongolia © Sten Johansson

Altai, Mongolia, 2016. We have been camping in our tent the past few days. On this month-long visit to Genghis Khan’s home country, our accommodations have ranged from hotel rooms and hostels to lodges and tents.

We are walking out of a valley and looking at our map to decide our next destination. Suddenly, we see a minibus similar to the Russian marshrutka from World War II approaching down the road. It’s loaded with stuff and amidst all of it a man and a woman are squeezed in.

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The Great Wall of China © Sten Johansson

MAKING A SLIGHT DETOUR

“Let’s go to a country you haven’t been to!” My wife says.

“Let’s go to a country where I won’t meet any divers!” I said.

Mongolia: 3 million inhabitants and lots of open space! Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan), the great conqueror of the world, was born here.

But first, Beijing.

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Nothing but blue sky © Sten Johansson

REACHING OUR DESTINATION

We arrive in the middle of the night in Ulaanbaatar, where more than half of the population of Mongolia live. It’s a very modern city and the most polluted capital in the world according to studies. Using coal for energy and heating in a valley on a high plateau might have helped them get to the top of the list. It’s not a pretty place.

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Puppy dog © Sten Johansson

It was the year 2007 when Mike Lever, the owner of Nautilus Explorer made the first shark cage to be tested. I was the one tasked to be the first one to try it out.

They said it was designed by a naval architect. Perfect!

I took a look at it and said, “Wait…” Then I went and picked up my BCD and regulator. I didn’t trust the damn thing.

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Ferox liveaboard boat in Malpelo © Sten Johansson

People have been asking me how they can dive in Malpelo or do a liveaboard charter now that Yemaya, which I considered to be the safest dive vessel at the time, is no longer operating. I couldn’t recommend anyone else.

Last month I had the opportunity to check out the operation of the new liveaboard Ferox. I fell in love with the boat very quickly!

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Sten and Juan Pablo in Las Pocitas © Sten Johansson

My wife and I went for a short exploration trip in our Toyota Tacoma, the vehicle that I finally managed to buy after the worst car I have ever owned, a Ford Explorer (or “The Ford Exploder,” as we used to call it.) To keep life simple, we didn’t come up with a particular plan. We just drove and let the road lead us to our destination.

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This afternoon I went to the beach with my wife to gather some logs that got washed up ashore from some distant storm. While I was chopping the bark off one of the two stumps that I found in the arroyo (dry riverbed), a man called out to me from the beachfront property across from where I was minding my own business. He told me in no uncertain terms that I was in his yard. According to him, I was trespassing. I politely informed him that I was in the arroyo and on the beach. Both were public property.

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Adventure always seems to follow me around. It shows up in different forms — a broken toe, a burglar breaking in, an uzi pointed at me, a capsized kayak, a prison cell, an underwater connection, a lifetime friendship. Things happen to me all the time, I wish for a normal life sometimes. But who’s to say what’s ‘normal’?

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