I can honestly say I don’t like the crossings… not the 36 hours in seas that are sometimes pretty choppy. I don’t get seasick, but after years of long crossings, something about it just makes it hard for me to start working until we reach our destination. I don’t like to talk to anyone on the way to Malpelo because I am usually grumpy. I prefer to stay in bed and watch movies while getting my mind tuned in to where we are going.
Malpelo Trip Report, Summer 2022
I like to be by myself during the crossing, though I try to say a polite greeting to everyone. I watch the sea — the depth of the waves, the ripples in the water, the lines that you see to feel what current is going on. It takes time and concentration. I feel what the water tells me, but going into the dive I am still unsure. That is why I like to give the dive briefing on the skiff when we arrive to the spot. And we do another check when we get there. Then, finally, the briefing!
Two trips in a row now. Mike, who was part of my first dive team this year, is back after a short break in Cali. Also returning are Alex and Arnaldo from my very first dive team back in 2019. Last but not the least: Gordon, Lara and Mark from Scotland complete my team on this trip. Dad Gordon, who is just a bit over 50, has been an instructor for many years and is a rock-solid diver. He comes with his daughter, sharp-eyed Lara, and his son, Mark.
Why do I focus on the divers I dive with? Because they make the team underwater. Even if we are diving individually, we learn to dive together and how to approach the animals. And when they say, “Great Sten, you nailed it!” My response is, “No, you guys did!”
Diving is not just swimming and blowing bubbles… It is each minute of being a hunter and observer and reading the sea.
Shark Encounters
So, animal-wise… I already forgot what we saw on the last trip other than we had whale sharks on each dive on the last day. On this trip we had none.
Galapagos sharks
Outside of the cave of La Gringa I counted over 30 Galapagos sharks in clear sight. But there were at least 50 individuals.
Hammerheads
We really had to work hard to see them as they did not come in to the cleaning stations that much. However, we finally got them in the south, especially at El Bajon del V. There were lots of them, and we saw more and more of them on the last days.
Silkies
At the end of on one of our dives at La Nevera, we went out into the blue and encountered milky waters at 12 meters (39 feet). Suddenly, rainbow runners came and the rainbow chubs with it, and then… the silkies!!!!!! Finally!!! They were not in the thousands like I have seen them in the past, but I estimated a good hundred. It was so nice to see them. They didn’t make another appearance for the rest of the trip, still I was happy to meet them again.
Other Encounters
The mullet snappers in a huge school of tens of thousands blocking the light and viz while they pooped to their heart’s content. Bonitos in thousands were there as well.
I wanted to show the big school of big-eye jacks, but they decided it was a time to mate and all split up into pairs. The male turns black while swimming under the female, which keeps her silver coloring.
Then we had the wolf pack… Hundreds of Leatherbass on the reef with bluefin Trevallys above them, while the morays undulated on the bottom, keeping themselves out of sight underneath the rocks. There was so much action going on and we were present to watch this amazing spectacle.
We had contact with the barracudas and the schooling whippersnappers, with huge amberjacks patrolling on the outside, ready to attack both the barracudas and the whippersnappers at any time.
At Puerta del Cielo close to David we had a flotilla of 15 eagle rays passing by.
Bonuses
Ricardo’s group saw the Monster, the Ferox, at La Cara de la Fantasma.
And my group had, from what I could see, a black marlin on our safety stop.
Two good trips? Yes.
I don’t have many photos because I was so focused on the diving, but hopefully some of our team members will soon share theirs.
I just want to say, I love this rock!
Malpelo Summer Trip Reports
For my first Malpelo summer trip report, click here.
Read my Malpelo summer 2021 trip report here.
The last spot on my October trip is up for grabs. If you would like to join me, please email me or send me a message on my website. More information on the trip here: Malpelo Liveaboard Diving
